The preliminary results are posted on the NCJ website for the Fall NCJ Sprint:
Top Ten Scores Call Score Bnd Chgs Qs Lost 00Z 01Z 02Z 03Z N9RV 16,368 154 1 100 91 76 74 N2IC 16,330 150 0 110 85 80 80 N6MJ 15,557 2 4 92 88 64 87 NO3M 15,510 144 4 116 76 76 62 N6TV 15,134 105 5 101 83 70 68 N5KO 15,088 119 0 93 89 75 71 N5RZ 15,087 106 2 94 89 68 70 K4RO 14,993 126 4 99 79 82 59 N4OGW 14,664 108 0 103 72 73 64 K0EU 14,628 102 4 98 75 76 69
73 until the next Sprint in February! – NO3M
The final touches on the front panel were installed today. Dial markers were added just above the BFO, RF gain, and crystal filter phasing control knobs. The markers were made by filing down the heads of #2-56 screws. These are similar to the dial markers used on the National HRO series receivers.
Next, an information tag and main tuning calibration chart were added. The hi-resolution (300dpi) graphics were created in GIMP (GNU Image Manipulation Program). The calibration charts (160, 80, 40, 20) were modelled after the early HRO style paper charts that were on the plugin coilsets, with a 0.1 in. grid. In fact, the satin-black metal frames and clear plastic covers (yellowed from age) to mount the information tag and calibration chart were taken from an old HRO coilset. The frames are held in place with #4-40 black screws. The front panel has tapped holes to accept the screws. When changing bands, the calibration chart above the main tuning dial can be changed by removing the top screws and loosening the bottom screws. The charts can be slide in and out from the top.
The yellowing of the plastic covers really adds a nostalgic appearance to the receiver.
With all of the front panel work complete, it’s time to start wiring!
Power Cable
I was able to procure a vintage brown cloth covered, 6-conductor power cable. Two(2) of the conductors are #14, adequate for the filament current if I decide to use 2.5V tubes (approx 11A including dial lamps). Only two of the smaller gauge conductors will be used for B+ and B- (ground). The cable is fed through a hole with rubber grommet in the rear and held in place with a metal cable clamp inside the chassis.Continue reading …..
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